Tory Burch’s SS24 Hoop Dresses Have a Deeper Meaning
Last season Tory Burch caught my attention through reimagined corsets, a green silk coat, and a two-piece set made out of mirrors. The color story was ever-present, paired alongside various nods to the 90s (see: capri-leggings and boho-chic belts). When this season’s SS24 runway came around, I anticipated a focus on structure and tailoring, building off of SS23’s dreamy coats and wire-structured tops. While the collection delivered on both accounts, I was pleasantly surprised by the incorporation of unique texture and silhouettes that stood out amongst the sea of NYFW designs.
Burch reportedly shared that she designed this line to explore and reinvent clothes that were traditionally used to hold women back. Throughout the collection Tory Burch reimagines the hoop skirt, presenting circular hems and dramatic tiered rings. This structure refers to the crinoline hoop skirts (also referred to as, yes, cages) that were popular in women’s fashion throughout the 19th century. In the SS24 line, the featured hoops are both eye-catching and non-restrictive, utilizing softly stretched fabrics to contrast starkly linear shaping.
Even fishnets were redefined on the runway as various pieces featured the prohibition-era staple in softened form. Look 22, 29 and 32 shift the look from traditional stockings into layered dress silhouettes. Beaded embellishments add volume to the pieces, allowing the netted fabric to serve as a canvas for deeper texture.
Looks 15 and 28 experiment with netted fabrics through outerwear, making for a modernized vest and coat.
Meanwhile, Look 35, 36 and 37 make fishnets look truly comfortable through loosely netted layering.
Through these pieces, I’ve come to further understand the previous season as well. While SS23’s fresh corsets (seen below) were a take on the trendy top, they also served as an ode to the historically restricting intimate wear. Burch’s collections bring new meaning and ease to these otherwise stiff and constricting pieces.
Before we sign off… a moment for the bags. I am not usually one for clutches but these handhelds are perfect! We’ve seen yellow accessories pop up across many runways this season, and Tory Burch’s opening look gave a flawless intro to the color. As for the choice in shape, we can note the inspiration taken from loose leather pouche pieces seen across other popular collections (see Bottega’s iconic pouch clutches).
I’m excited to see where Tory Burch takes this concept in future collections. For now, I’ll sit back and dream about these pieces!